How to Root Black Elderberry Cuttings

Black Elderberries

Elderberry - one of the fastest growing plants is also very quick to form roots on simple hardwood or softwood cuttings. If you have access to healthy black elderberry plants, you should be able to take a few cuttings (with permission, of course) and within just two years, be harvesting your own black elderberries. 

If you take your own cuttings, cut a six to eight inch section of woody stem and make sure to include at least one leaf node at the top, and one or two others lower down if possible. Place the fresh cuttings directly in water as soon as possible

So, given that you now have some black elderberry cuttings in your hand - what next?

Fresh cut elderberry cuttings

Inspect your cuttings to make sure you know which end is up and which is the bottom. Obviously, if your cutting is upside down, the water uptake won't happen and the cutting will dry out. If you have leaves still attached, orientation is easy. I like to make a slanted cut at the bottom of my cuttings when I remove them from the mother plant. If you inspect the leaf nodes, you will see that the node is wider at the top, tapering down to the stem. The wider side of the node should be facing upward.

Roots forming at the lower leaf node

If you still have a couple of months before winter, place them in a suitably sized container that will allow them to be more than halfway submerged in water. Set in a sunny window and wait. You will need to change the water every few days. Within a week or two you will notice bumps enlarging on the base of the cutting. This is where the roots will form  - a little every day. Once you see the roots stretching out, it's time to plant them out either in their permanent location or in a plant pot. Be very gentle not to disturb the roots as you plant them and then water well. 

Plant elderberries in full sun for best fruit production. They are quite tolerant of poor conditions, but will do best in loamy soil with full sun and plenty of water. Do remember that they will go dormant in the winter and then burst into life in early spring. The first year will be somewhat unimpressive, as the plant will establish a good root system and send up two or three stems. The next year, be ready because they will explode with growth, reaching upwards of ten feet in height and six to twelve arching branches that will each bear nice large umbels of beautiful black elderberries.

Healthy elderberry bush

If you don't have cuttings, you can check out my Etsy site, Wildflower Run.

https://wildflowerrun.etsy.com

 

How to Root Red Mulberry (Morus Rubra) Tree Cuttings

Summertime is such a fun time for kids when school is finally out. They often have time to think for themselves and be outside exploring this big grand world even if it is from within the scope of their own backyards or maybe a park close by. Half of the United States, from the Mississippi eastward is home to a wonderful fruit tree that almost always grows wild without any care from humans and produces bucket loads of fruit free for children. The red mulberry is the tree I remember finding early in the summer before the blackberries were ripe. They are so much easier to pick as the tree has no thorns. 

Now, I am happy to have a few mulberry trees on my property even if it's only to harvest a few handfuls to eat fresh after I get my mail on summer days. The fruit is soft and sweet and the seeds are barely perceptible when I eat them. I was pleased to find out that this tree will also root from cuttings while it is actively growing, unlike most fruit trees that root from dormant cuttings.

So, how to get these red mulberry tree cuttings to root? There are just a few steps that you can follow and within a few years, you can harvest your own mulberries!

1) Obtain fresh cuttings, preferably with a top leaf. You want to make sure that they cutting is still moist inside so that water can flow from the potting soil into the cutting. If you received them via mail, recut the bottom cut so that you are working with a fresh surface. Immediately place the cutting in water.

2) Prepare a pot by filling it with a well moistened mixture of half coconut coir and vermiculite. (You can also use perlite). Poke a hold in it the same diameter of the cutting about 4 inches deep

3) Dip the freshly cut end of the red mulberry cutting into a rooting hormone preparation

4) Carefully place the cutting into the prepared hole, sinking it down until there is only one node above the soil line

5) Press the soil firmly around the cutting, using your fingers.

6) Water the cutting with room temperature water - preferably non-chlorinated

7) Cover the cutting with a clear cup or bag to keep humidity levels high. 

8) Place the cutting some place warm and with indirect light for four to six weeks or until rooted.

9) Check the cutting every few days by lifting the cover and allowing fresh air in. Make sure the soil stays damp but not wet. 

10) Plant the rooted cutting into a new pot filled with good garden soil. Place outside in a sunny spot and make sure to keep soil damp. In the fall, you can plant your new tiny mulberry tree in permanent location where it will get plenty of sunshine, preferably near other trees but still have room to grow.

That's it. Pretty simple. Although I will say that sometimes the mulberry cuttings can be resistant to rooting. Don't expect more than 50 percent to succeed, unless you have a special touch!

You can check out my Etsy page, Wildflower Run to see if I have any mulberry cuttings in stock.

Full grown mulberry tree

How to Root Hops from Stem Cuttings

Photo by Michael Styne

A few years back, I was gifted some Humulus Lupulus 'Cascade' hop rhizomes to plant in an empty space in my yard for use in future beer brewing. 

We tended them so carefully and marked their spot in our yard so as not to mow over  any newly sprouting hop tendrils and then watched with excitement as they appeared, and grew, and grew some more until we had more growth than we ever expected. 

Hops grow fast and even are even considered invasive by some gardeners but it is not listed on the USDA Invasive Species List. (https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=12189) They are a perennial bine that grows easily from 10 to 20 feet high in full sun with plenty of water and in good soil. Yes, a reliable means of asexual propagation is by splitting off some of the rhizomes that grow outward from the central root mass, but there is another way...

Did you know you don't have to do any digging? You can root cuttings from actively growing hops. 

Hops

My procedure is pretty simple.

1.  I remove a section of the bine, usually when I am pruning the plant in the spring and early summer. 
2. Trim the section into smaller 6-8 inch pieces that each have three to four growing nodes. 
3. Trim extra leaves, leaving one leaf at the top to photosynthesize carbohydrates for the cutting.
4. Place the cutting into a prepared rooting mix of dampened coco coir and vermiculite mix so that the top growth node is sitting on the top of the mixture.
5. Keep the cutting moist but not wet  and in a shady but warm spot for the next two weeks or so or until you notice the new roots.
6. Transfer the cutting to a plant pot filled with regular potting soil  and keep moist until you are ready to plant it outside in a permanent location.

Freshly sprouted hop plant

Note: These plants are so easy to root that I have just stuck my pruned cuttings into a bucket of water and forgotten about them for a couple of weeks only to find they had rooted themselves, so don't be too intimidated by the details.

If you would like a more in depth article on this process, you can click here. 

I hope you give rooting a hop vine a try, as I think you will be happily rewarded for your efforts.

Just make sure you are not propagating a patented vine. You can just insert the variety of the hop name on the Google Patent Search page and find out quickly whether you can proceed legally.

Sometimes in the early spring, I sell Cascade Hop cuttings on my Etsy page, Wildflower Run.

Starting New Red Currant Bushes From Cuttings

Red Currants

One of my favorite plants to grow is red currants. I am not sure exactly why it is my favorite as I have struggled to get mine to grow in my current (:-) yard until this last year. There is something about the brown sticks pushing out their buds in the early spring and then the strings of green berries that slowly ripen into translucent balls of deep red beautifulness that just inspires me. On the other hand, I don't really enjoy picking them as they are small, somewhat hard to harvest and easily squished. But again, they are just beautiful!

A couple of years ago, I discovered the joy of propagating red currants from cuttings. Back then, my only experience was concord grapes and roses and so I tried using the same method. I would take a few hardwood cuttings in the fall when the plant was dormant and just lay them flat covered with about 6 inches of soil in a trench for the winter. Some springtime, I would unearth them and plant the ones with roots emerging. But that took a long time.

Strands of Ripe Currants

Now, I found through watching some gardeners in the UK that they simply chop off a few branches and place them  in a jar of water until they see white roots emerging. This method only takes a few weeks - not all winter.  

Here is my simple method that you can try at home if you or a friend has a currant bush (or gooseberry or jostaberry) and you want to increase your plant stock.

• Cut a branch off a healthy currant bush after a node, close to the base of the plant. 
• Cut the branch into 6-inch sections, each with at least two nodes, preferably three nodes. I cut flat at the top just after a node and angled at the bottom just before a node.
• Set the cuttings directly into water.*
• Place the container in a sunny but warm spot like a kitchen window or under a grow light for four to six weeks. Check the water periodically and refresh it if it becomes cloudy.
• Once the roots start to appear, transplant the rooted cutting into potting soil and keep moist until you see vigorous growth. 
• Plant outside in a permanent location in late fall or early spring.

*Alternatively, you can dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone and then place it directly into damp potting soil. Firm the soil around the cutting and water it before setting it in a sunny warm space.

Currants seem to need fertile soil with plenty of organic matter and only 6 hours or so of sunlight. I had one year with almost no growth on my bushes and then found after I applied a thick mulch of mushroom soil that they sprang to life and doubled in size. 

Red currant bush ready for picking with fresh ripe berries 

I don't do much to my currants other than mulch in the spring and then cut out three year old branches at their base during the winter. They are a nice easy addition to our permaculture garden and the beautiful berries sparkle on top of desserts on our morning cereal.  When I have an abundance of berries to harvest, I always have to figure out if I am going to freeze them as is, or make beautiful ruby red jelly,  or currant jam or even a red currant liqueur. Such a nice dilemma!

I do sell some of my successfully rooted Red Currant cuttings on my Etsy page, Wildflower Run, if you don't have a source for them.

Rooting Fig Cuttings

See the roots forming at the basal node

I was really surprised to find out I could grow a fig plant in USDA growing zone 7a where we have freezing cold winters. One of my wonderful kids bought me a couple of fig plants over ten years ago. Each fall when the weather changed and the fig leaves fell, I would wrap the fig branches in burlap and plastic trash bags and use leaf mulch or pine needles to insulate the plant from freezing damage. And then I learned that as the plant got older, the damage was almost non-existent, so now I don't do anything.

My next big surprise was that I could cut off sections of the current year's growth and root them into forming new plants. I was always so worried that I would kill my gifted fig trees by not taking proper care of them and here I could start new plants! So what is my method?

Growing figs is easy!

Rooting fig tree cuttings:

1. Once the plant has gone into dormancy for the winter months (but before the deep freeze if you live in zones 7a and farther north,) cut 6 to 8 inch sections about pencil size and larger. Cut just after a node on the bottom - cutting at an angle - and then after three nodes using a straight cut.

2. Place the cuttings immediately in room temperature water - just an inch or two is plenty as the bottom cut is what needs to stay wet. You can leave them in water for several days if necessary for storage or until you are ready to plant them. I have actually rooted some cuttings in an inch of water, but that method is not the most reliable.

3. Plant the cutting in a potting soil mixture of perlite, peat moss and coconut coir, or something similar. You want the cutting to be able to access the moisture in the soil mixture without becoming wet. At least one node should be visible above the top of the soil where a leaf bud should swell and open into a leaf.

4. Place the potted fig cutting in a sunny window or under grow lights in a warm environment - around 65 to 75 degrees (F). Only water when the soil is dry to the touch, but don't let it dry out or you risk drying out the tiny new roots that form over time. Expect them to stay here for 4 to 6 weeks to root.

5. When you see the leaves swelling and growing large, you can pretty much calculate that the roots are growing well. Tip the plant upside down to remove it carefully from the plant pot and check for roots. If there are only a couple, put it back and wait a little longer. Once the roots are starting to circle around the base of the plant pot, you are ready to plant your new fig in a larger pot or directly into the ground where you plant to grow figs permanently. 

Fig Harvest!

This is my preferred method for a pretty good success rate. I have had less success with rooting directly in water, but the method did work. Another method I tried was taking a cutting and burying it directly in the ground in the spring about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost and that worked amazingly well.  I have tried wrapping cuttings in a damp paper towel and then in a plastic bag, but they tended to get moldy and rot.

Now I have fig plants all over my yard, several that I rooted from gifted cuttings from friends and family. We eat them fresh during the later summer months and well into the fall until the first frost kills the leaves. I made lots of fig preserves when we can't keep up with eating all the harvest. 

Make your own fig preserves

Planting Fig Plants:

If you purchase a fig plant that was started during the winter, you should keep it indoors in the warmer temperatures and in a sunny spot or under grow lights until the soil temperatures are around 60 degrees F. Otherwise, for plants bought during the growing season, plant them in a sunny spot in rich loamy soil. Water both when the soil is dry to the touch.

For further information on growing the actual fig plants, The University of Maryland Extension has a great article here: Growing Figs in Maryland 

If you are interested in purchasing fig cuttings, I sell them on my Etsy page here: Celeste Fig Cuttings.