Growing a Gingko Tree from Seed and Beyond

Have you ever been driving through a neighborhood and noticed a stunningly brilliant yellow tree with distinctive fan-shaped leaves? Or maybe you have heard of taking gingko biloba supplements for helping various ailments. Well that is what happened to me and so I started looking into what kind of a tree it was and if I could plant it on our property. But that was years ago and I never acted on getting seedlings or seeds until the fall of 2023.

I was taking a walk in a neighboring town and noticed a small fruit on the ground along the curb of a street. Since the size and shape reminded me of a small apricot I was curious what it might be but before I could touch it, the rank smell reminded me of my previous research on the Gingko tree and that the seeds should not be touched with bare hands. I picked it up with a napkin and looked around for the mother tree. Sure enough, about 20 feet away was a female Gingko tree covered in the orange fruit and plenty of droppings for me to grab. 

How You Can Grow a Gingko Tree from seed.

-Harvest ripe dropped seeds in the early fall.

-Place them in a clean bucket and covered them with water for around three weeks. Keep them away from your house as the smell is horrendous

-Drain the seeds and put on rubber gloves. Separate the fleshy covering from the seed underneath and then rinse with fresh water.

-Place the seeds in a damp paper towel or cloth and then in a plastic bag or container. Keep them in a dark cool (40-55 degrees F) place for the next 6 months. Check every few weeks to make sure the towel or cloth is still damp, but not wet.

-Remove the sprouted seeds in the spring and plant in a gallon pot filled with regular potting soil, being careful not to damage the small root. Set them in a sheltered place outside and water as needed to keep the soil damp.

-Once the seedling is about 8-12 inches tall in the summer, you can transplant the young tree to a permanent spot where it can grow at least 20 feet from any other trees or shrubs. 

1. Choose the Right Planting Location:

• Sunlight: Ginkgo trees thrive in full sun, needing at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. They can also tolerate partial shade, but full sun is best for optimal growth and fall color. 

• Soil:

• Ginkgos prefer well-drained soil and are not particular about soil type. They can tolerate a variety of soils including loamy, sandy, and even clay.

• Ensure the soil has good drainage to avoid waterlogging, which can be harmful to ginkgos.

• They can grow in a wide range of soil pH levels, from acidic to alkaline. 

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• Spacing:

• Ginkgo trees can grow quite large, so ensure adequate space for their mature size. A mature ginkgo can reach 50-80 feet tall and 30-40 feet wide.

• Space ginkgos 30-40 feet apart if planting multiple trees. 

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• Consider the mature size and potential impact on surrounding areas:

• The height and width of the tree at maturity and its possible effects on nearby structures or other plants should be taken into account. 

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2. Planting Time:

• Spring or Fall: The best time to plant ginkgos is during the spring or fall when the weather is mild. 

• Avoid Planting in Extreme Weather: Avoid planting during the heat of summer or when the ground is frozen in winter. 

3. Planting Procedure:

• Dig the Hole:

• Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball of the ginkgo sapling.

• The depth of the hole should be the same as the root ball, no deeper. 

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• Prepare the Soil:

• Loosen the soil at the sides of the hole to encourage root growth.

• Consider amending the soil with organic matter, such as compost, to enrich the soil and improve drainage. 

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• Planting:

• Carefully remove the tree from its container. Gently loosen any circling roots.

• Place the tree in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.

• Backfill with soil and tamp lightly to eliminate air pockets. 

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• Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. 

4. Initial Care After Planting:

• Watering: Water the young tree regularly, especially during dry periods. 

• Staking: If the tree is young and unstable, stake it to provide support while it establishes its roots.

If you don't have access to a neighborhood tree for the seeds, I do have several seedlings for sale on my page on Etsy here: Gingko biloba seedlings.

How to Root Red Mulberry Tree Cuttings

Sidewalk covered in Mulberries

One of the fun and nostalgic rites of summer is the arrival of the ripe red mulberries as they first show up dropping their fruit onto the sidewalks and driveways of our town. I am sure they are dropping their fruit onto the lawns and fields, but you never notice them until suddenly you are walking over them and you look up to see the dark fruit hanging in masses above your head. Unlike a lot of other dark berries, mulberries won't stain your fingers, so you don't have to be so careful as you stuff handfuls into your mouth. 

You might assume that the common mulberries growing along the eastern United States are black mulberries since the berries go from white to red to black when they ripen. However the black mulberry (Morus nigra) is a different cultivar native to Southwest Asia. I am speaking of the Morus Rubra, a North America native mulberry that grows along the East Coast from USDA growing zone 3 through 8. We have several trees that grow on our property and harvesting cuttings is a fun way to propagate the trees. Many times, I will forget to label the pots and as they go dormant in winter, I can always tell it's a mulberry by the tree's orange roots. This tree likes to grow in floodplains and spreads its roots in a large network within the top 24 inches of soil, collecting nutrients and moisture and at the same time making it a very sturdy tree. 

Here is how I like to root my red mulberry cuttings:

• Take cuttings from the newest growth that is almost as thick as a pencil. Immediately after cutting, place the bottom into a container of water so that there is no chance of the cut drying out. I use an angled cut on the bottom about a 1/4-inch below a node and a straight cut across the top of a 6 to 8 inch section, also about 1/4-inch above a node. Take several cuttings at a time to increase your chances of success.

• Prepare a rooting container by filling it with 4 - 6 inches of a dampened mixture of vermiculite and coconut coir or something similar with good drainage. Poke holes with a pencil sized instrument.

• Dip your cutting into a rooting hormone (optional) and then into the prepared holes. Keep at least one node above the soil line. Press the soil firmly around each cutting making sure the bark has good contact.

• Cover the cuttings with a cloche or translucent bag to keep the humidity levels high around the cuttings. Open the covering every 7 to 14 days to freshen the air and prevent mold and fungal growth.

• Place the covered cuttings in a shady but warm (65 to 75 F) place for 6 to 8 weeks or until you see signs of growth. Make sure the soil never dries out or you will most likely have dead cuttings as the fragile new roots dry out very easily.

• When leaves appear, remove the coverings and mist lightly every few days and check for root growth. I like to use translucent containers so I can see the roots as they develop.

• Transfer into individual containers filled with potting soil when you see roots and continue to moisten every few days until you see vigorous growth.

Your new red mulberry tree is now ready to be planted in a sunny spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day. Continue to water for the first year when you notice the soil is dry. I do not fertilize young trees as I want to encourage root growth to find its own nutrients and water away from the planting site.

If you don't have access to a mulberry tree for cuttings, you can always check here: 

https://wildflowerrun.etsy.com/listing/1218131545.