Ever heard of a Che tree? If not, you're not alone! This intriguing plant often flies under the radar, but it's a unique and rewarding addition to the adventurous gardener's collection.
What Exactly Is a Che Tree?
Scientific Name: Cudrania tricuspidata (sometimes classified as Maclura tricuspidata).
Common Names: Che, Chinese Mulberry, Cudrang, Silkworm Thorn, Mandarin Melon Berry.
Family: Moraceae – the same family as Mulberries, Figs, and Osage Orange (to which it's closely related).
Origin: Native to East Asia (China, Korea, Japan).
Appearance: It's typically a small deciduous tree or large shrub, growing anywhere from 10 to 30 feet tall. It has a somewhat rounded, spreading habit. Watch out – most varieties have thorns, especially when young! The leaves are variable; sometimes simple ovals, sometimes distinctively lobed (often 3-lobed, hence tricuspidata) especially on vigorous young growth. Like its relatives, it exudes a milky sap when cut.
The Fruit: This is where it gets interesting! Che fruit looks like a bumpy, red, raspberry-mulberry hybrid, about 1-2 inches in diameter. The texture is chewy and slightly gelatinous, and the flavor is... well, debated! It's generally described as mildly sweet, sometimes reminiscent of fig, melon, or a sweet, watery mulberry. Flavor intensity can vary greatly depending on the variety, ripeness, and growing conditions. Some find it delicious and refreshing, others find it a bit bland. They ripen late in the season, typically late summer into fall.
Male & Female Trees: Important point! Che trees are usually dioecious, meaning individual trees are either male or female. You generally need both a male and a female tree for the female tree to produce seeded (and often larger, better-flavored) fruit through pollination. However, female trees can sometimes produce seedless fruit (parthenocarpy) without a male nearby, but this isn't always reliable or might result in smaller fruit. Some sources mention self-fertile varieties, but these seem less common.
Growing Conditions: Che is pretty adaptable! It prefers full sun for best fruiting, tolerates a range of soils (though well-drained is best), and is quite drought-tolerant once established. It's generally hardy in USDA zones 5-9, possibly colder with some protection.
Why Grow Che?
It's unusual and a great conversation starter.
The fruit is unique, even if an acquired taste for some.
It's relatively low-maintenance and pest/disease resistant.
It's related to mulberries and figs, making it interesting for fruit enthusiasts.
Birds often enjoy the fruit (which can be good or bad, depending on your perspective!).
How to Root Che Tree Cuttings
Propagating Che from cuttings allows you to clone a specific tree (especially useful if you have a female tree you like or a known self-fertile variety). Be warned: Che isn't the easiest plant to root from cuttings compared to things like willow or mint, but it's definitely possible with patience! Hardwood or semi-hardwood cuttings tend to have better success rates than softwood.
Best Time to Take Cuttings:
Hardwood Cuttings: Late fall or winter, during the dormant season after leaves have dropped.
Semi-Hardwood Cuttings: Late summer or early fall, when the current season's growth has started to mature and firm up but isn't fully woody.
What You'll Need:
Healthy Parent Tree: Source of your cuttings.
Sharp, Clean Pruners or Knife: Sterilize with rubbing alcohol or bleach solution between cuts.
Rooting Hormone: Powder, liquid, or gel (IBA or NAA). This significantly increases success rates for woody cuttings like Che.
Rooting Medium: A well-draining mix. Options include:
Sharp sand
Perlite
Vermiculite
A mix of peat moss/coir and perlite/sand (e.g., 50/50)
Pots or Trays: With drainage holes. Small individual pots or a larger tray work.
Plastic Bag or Humidity Dome: To maintain high humidity around the cuttings.
Labels: To keep track of what you're rooting and when.
Watering Can/Spray Bottle: For keeping the medium moist.
(Optional but Recommended) Heat Mat: Bottom heat encourages root development, especially for hardwood cuttings.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Select Your Cuttings: Choose healthy, vigorous stems from the current or last season's growth. Aim for pencil thickness (around 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter).
Take the Cuttings: Cut segments about 6-10 inches long. Make the bottom cut just below a node (a bump where a leaf was or a bud is present). Make the top cut just above a node. If taking semi-hardwood cuttings, remove the lower leaves, leaving only 2-3 leaves at the top (you can cut large leaves in half horizontally to reduce water loss). For hardwood cuttings, there won't be any leaves.
Wound the Base (Optional but Recommended): Gently scrape off a thin vertical sliver of bark (about 1 inch long) on one or two sides of the bottom end of the cutting. This exposes more cambium layer, potentially encouraging rooting.
Apply Rooting Hormone: Moisten the bottom inch or so of the cutting, then dip it into the rooting hormone powder or gel, ensuring the cut end and any wounded area are coated. Tap off any excess powder.
Plant the Cuttings: Fill your pots/tray with the pre-moistened rooting medium. Use a dibber or pencil to make holes in the medium to avoid scraping off the hormone. Insert the cuttings into the holes, burying at least 2-3 nodes deep. Gently firm the medium around the cuttings.
Water Gently: Water the medium again lightly to settle it around the cuttings. Ensure it's moist but not waterlogged.
Provide Humidity: Cover the pot/tray with a clear plastic bag (use stakes to keep it off the leaves) or place it under a humidity dome. This prevents the cuttings from drying out before they can grow roots.
Place in a Suitable Location:
Light: Bright, indirect light (avoid direct sun, which can cook them).
Temperature: Warmth is key. Room temperature (65-75°F / 18-24°C) is okay, but bottom heat from a heat mat set to around 70-75°F (21-24°C) significantly boosts success, especially for hardwood cuttings.
Care and Patience:
Moisture: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but never soggy (this encourages rot). Check regularly.
Ventilation: Open the bag or dome for 10-15 minutes every few days to allow air circulation and prevent fungal issues.
Patience: Rooting Che can take time – anywhere from several weeks to several months. Don't give up too soon! Hardwood cuttings taken in winter might not show significant root growth until spring.
Check for Roots: After 6-8 weeks (or longer), you can start checking for roots. Don't pull the cuttings out frequently, as this disturbs developing roots. Instead:
Look for new leaf growth (a good sign, but not definitive proof of roots).
Give a very gentle tug. If you feel resistance, roots are likely forming.
Check for roots emerging from the drainage holes.
Potting Up: Once cuttings have a decent root system (visible roots, resistance to tugging), carefully transplant them into individual pots with standard potting soil.
Acclimatize: Gradually reduce the humidity over a week or two by opening the bag/dome for longer periods before removing it completely. Keep the newly potted plants in indirect light initially, slowly introducing them to more sun.
Tips for Success:
Start with Multiple Cuttings: Che rooting can be hit-or-miss. Increase your chances by starting with more cuttings than you need.
Use Bottom Heat: Especially crucial for hardwood cuttings in cooler temperatures.
Be Patient: This is often the hardest part!
Maintain High Humidity: Essential until roots form.
Ensure Good Drainage: Soggy medium is the enemy.
Good luck with your Che tree adventures! It's a rewarding plant to grow and propagate, even if it requires a little extra effort. Happy gardening!
