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| Sidewalk covered in Mulberries |
One of the fun and nostalgic rites of summer is the arrival of the ripe red mulberries as they first show up dropping their fruit onto the sidewalks and driveways of our town. I am sure they are dropping their fruit onto the lawns and fields, but you never notice them until suddenly you are walking over them and you look up to see the dark fruit hanging in masses above your head. Unlike a lot of other dark berries, mulberries won't stain your fingers, so you don't have to be so careful as you stuff handfuls into your mouth.
You might assume that the common mulberries growing along the eastern United States are black mulberries since the berries go from white to red to black when they ripen. However the black mulberry (Morus nigra) is a different cultivar native to Southwest Asia. I am speaking of the Morus Rubra, a North America native mulberry that grows along the East Coast from USDA growing zone 3 through 8. We have several trees that grow on our property and harvesting cuttings is a fun way to propagate the trees. Many times, I will forget to label the pots and as they go dormant in winter, I can always tell it's a mulberry by the tree's orange roots. This tree likes to grow in floodplains and spreads its roots in a large network within the top 24 inches of soil, collecting nutrients and moisture and at the same time making it a very sturdy tree.
Here is how I like to root my red mulberry cuttings:
- Take cuttings from the newest growth that is almost as thick as a pencil. Immediately after cutting, place the bottom into a container of water so that there is no chance of the cut drying out. I use an angled cut on the bottom about a 1/4-inch below a node and a straight cut across the top of a 6 to 8 inch section, also about 1/4-inch above a node. Take several cuttings at a time to increase your chances of success.
- Prepare a rooting container by filling it with 4 - 6 inches of a dampened mixture of vermiculite and coconut coir or something similar with good drainage. Poke holes with a pencil sized instrument.
- Dip your cutting into a rooting hormone (optional) and then into the prepared holes. Keep at least one node above the soil line. Press the soil firmly around each cutting making sure the bark has good contact.
- Cover the cuttings with a cloche or translucent bag to keep the humidity levels high around the cuttings. Open the covering every 7 to 14 days to freshen the air and prevent mold and fungal growth.
- Place the covered cuttings in a shady but warm (65 to 75 F) place for 6 to 8 weeks or until you see signs of growth. Make sure the soil never dries out or you will most likely have dead cuttings as the fragile new roots dry out very easily.
- When leaves appear, remove the coverings and mist lightly every few days and check for root growth. I like to use translucent containers so I can see the roots as they develop.
- Transfer into individual containers filled with potting soil when you see roots and continue to moisten every few days until you see vigorous growth.
- Your new red mulberry tree is now ready to be planted in a sunny spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day. Continue to water for the first year when you notice the soil is dry. I do not fertilize young trees as I want to encourage root growth to find its own nutrients and water away from the planting site.
If you don't have access to a mulberry tree for cuttings, you can always check here:
